NT 2025  Summer Holiday to North West Devon

Those unable to join our North Devon holiday missed a double treat for not only did we have beautiful, interesting places to visit, but also avoided the extreme heat.  The coach was pleasantly warm and the rare shower gave us green grass, trees and fields.

Knightshayes Court was built by Sir John-Heathcote-Amory in 1869.  The exterior was designed by William Burges but his plans for the interior proved too High Gothic and expensive so John Dibblee Crace was hired to provide a contemporary design.  Nowadays there is greater appreciation of Burges’ style and the NT is introducing more elements into the house.  June is the peak time for roses and RHS Rosemoor Gardens has gardens and borders dedicated to roses, all filled with lovely colours and wonderful scents.

The present Arlington Court was the Chichester family home from 1851 until its donation to the National Trust by Miss Rosalie Chichester in 1945.  The first resident was Sir Bruce Chichester, an avid racer of ocean yachts but his passion led to heavy debts on the estate, only cleared in 1928.  His daughter, Rosalie, had wide range of interests. travelling  and collecting with her paid companion Miss Chrissie.  The National Trust’s Carriage Collection is housed in the old stables – over 50 carriages from 1820s on are held here, including several state carriages.  Nearly as long as a bendy bus, often requiring 4 heavy horses but only able to carry a maximum of two passengers, it was a great way to show off status and wealth.  At the Quince Honey Farm we learnt about the life of bees and the various stages in producing honey for sale.  They have over 1200 hives, many lodged on local farms and open areas. The company is a strong advocate of organic flora and environments that sustain pollinators. Our journey to the Lynton was delayed by a broken-down van by the car park.  All the drivers held up decided to reverse up the hill and it was a privilege to witness our own driver’s skill in reversing a nearly full-size coach up a narrow, steep and winding hill with a sheer cliff on one side and occasionally a steep drop on the other.  This left 15 minutes in Lynton for a quick look at Lynmouth from the back of the church and whizz around the village centre plus an ice cream if you were lucky. 

Bishop Tawton Hall, near Barnstaple was unknown to any of us.  Owned by the de Hall family since Norman times, it was part of Thomasine de Hall’s marriage settlement to Richard Chichester.  Rebuilt in 1840s by Robert Chichester in the neo-Jacobean style, the house has a gracious but comfortable feel of a relaxed home with children’s toys around and no seats off limits.  They are proud of the fact that although always on a tight budget, unlike the wealthy Arllngton Chichesters, never bankrupt!  A delicious afternoon tea with soft Devon rolls, strawberry jam and clotted cream.  Hartland Abbey, an Augustinian monastery until its dissolution in 1539 has also been in the same family ever since.  After three marriages to rich heiresses it has gone through several major transformations and expansions.  Likewise its contents and interiors have changed several times.  The library is the only remaining example of the Regency alterations, done in the High Gothic style.  The North Devon Maritime Museum at Appledore gave us the history of the area.  From Elizabethan times until the coming of iron ships it developed into a thriving fishing and trading seaport and shipbuilding hub.  Some wooden shipbuilding remains and it is now an arts hub.   Our last visit was to Wells Cathedral and the Bishops Palace. The Chapter room had an aura of profound peace – although reading Trollope, I doubt all Chapter meetings passed smoothly.   The gardens of the Palace were in full flower.  A lovely way to end our holiday.

We stayed at the very comfortable Park Hotel in Barnstaple.  The leg room in the coach was a luxury and Johnson’s driver was friendly joining us for meals.  As always the holiday provided places of interest.  Our sincere thanks go to Chris Fonteyn and Denise Carson for organising this much enjoyed holiday.  Their care to ensure that it lived up to expectations is phenomenal.  Such holidays can only occur if people are willing to come and take part in the planning and organising.  Please give it serious thought as it is only by everyone being ready to give practical assistance that organizations such as ours can continue.

Katey Fletcher